Answered: Even More Technical Guitar Questions You Were Too Afraid To Ask
Chances are none of us really know as much about guitar as we think, or that we’d like to. That being said, it can still be awkward or embarrassing to ask our bandmates, friends, guitar techn or local shop assistants about stuff that we feel like we should know by now but don’t.
READ MORE: Answered: more technical guitar questions you were too afraid to ask
If that’s you, don’t fret – after rattling through two full articles of common guitar queries already, we’re back with another tranche from you, the reader. Read on and learn!
How often should I change my guitar strings?
Does the gunk keep the funk? For many guitarists, the question of when is an appropriate time to change your strings is a key one to their overall sound. Answers can range from “as often as you can afford” to “when they break,” and both are valid answers. But from a tone perspective, there is a certain sound that you get from old strings, and it works really well for certain genres of music.
James Jamerson – the Motown bassist whose fingerprints are on more classic records than most people realize – used to go absurdly long stretches without changing his strings. His whole explanation was four words: “gunk keeps the funk.” Whether that’s a philosophy or just a guy who couldn’t be bothered, you can’t really argue with the catalog he built on those nasty strings. Jeff Tweedy has basically said the same thing about his preference to record with old guitar strings.
What’s happening physically is pretty straightforward. New strings are bright – they have lots of overtones, lots of sustain, very alive. Then you sweat on them, dead skin cells fill up the windings, they stretch out and stop holding tension evenly, and eventually the whole thing just kind of… settles into itself. Less sparkle, more thud. For some genres of music, that sort of sound works very well.
Funk bass is a good example. You want a tight, punchy fundamental – overtones and ringing sustain are actually in the way. Dead strings aren’t a flaw in that context; they’re doing exactly what the music needs. So, sometimes not changing your strings isn’t laziness. Sometimes it’s just the right call.
What Makes a Guitar Feel “Fast”?
I hear a lot of people use the term “fast” to describe a neck and as far as I can gather, a “fast neck” is a neck that feels effortless to play. Again, this is something that is the result of several different factors, and since we’re talking about “feel” different necks will feel different to different players. That being said, there are a few factors that universally result in effortless playing for the vast majority of hands.
One major factor is string action. Lower action means the strings sit closer to the fretboard, so your fingers don’t have to press as far to fret notes. That alone can dramatically change how effortless a guitar feels.
Neck shape also plays a role. A thinner or flatter profile may feel quicker to some players because it allows the hand to wrap around the neck more easily. Others actually prefer chunkier necks because they provide more support for the thumb.
Fret size can influence the sensation as well. Larger frets reduce the amount of fingerboard your fingertip touches when you press down a note, which can make bends and vibrato feel smoother.
Finally, the fingerboard radius affects how chords and single-note lines feel across the neck. Flatter radii often make bending easier, while rounder ones can feel more comfortable for chord playing.
Put all of those factors together and you get something players loosely call a “fast neck.” But in practice, what feels fast to one guitarist might feel awkward to another.
Do Heavier Guitars Have More Sustain Than Lighter Guitars?
The short answer here is no. While there might be some heavy guitars that sustain very well, correlation does not equal causation. There are plenty of light guitars that sustain as well if not better than their heavier counterparts. The real determining factor in a guitar’s sustain is far more complex than just overall weight. It has much more to do with the wood itself, the neck and body stiffness, neck joint design, bridge and hardware, and pickups and amplification.
If sustain the most important quality you’re looking for in an instrument, the best way to test it is to simply play the guitar before you buy it – something I would always recommend anyway. You can always record a guitar into a DAW and watch the waveform, but I find it much more fun to just play it and see if you like the way it feels and sounds.
What’s The Best Way To Power Your Pedalboard?
Power adapters are one of those things that seem simple until they’re not. The basics: an adapter takes AC power from your wall outlet and converts it to the lower DC voltage your pedals run on. Most pedals use 9V DC, though some require 12V, 18V, or higher – and that difference matters more than people think. Some pedals don’t come with an adaptor, or if you’re buying used pedals, it’s worth knowing a bit about adaptors before plugging things in.
The plug itself has a polarity, either center-positive or center-negative, which just refers to whether the inner or outer contact carries the positive charge. Grab a random adapter from the hardware store and you’re gambling – wrong voltage, wrong polarity, or AC instead of DC and you’ll likely kill the pedal outright. Too little voltage and the pedal may not turn on, or will run noticeably degraded. It’s not a forgiving system.
The other variable worth understanding is current draw, measured in milliamps (mA). Digital pedals tend to pull more than analog ones, sometimes significantly more. To figure out what your board needs, just add up the mA rating for each pedal – usually printed on the bottom or in the manual, and easy to look up if not – and make sure your power supply can handle the total. If you’ve got a tuner pulling 35mA, a fuzz at 5mA, an analog delay at 150mA, and a few other pedals in between, you might be looking at 300mA or more just for a modest board. A supply rated above that total gives you headroom and keeps everything running cleanly. Match the voltage, match the polarity, and give yourself enough current – and you’ll mitigate the risk to your pedals, which, as we all know, are expensive.
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